Skip to content

How to Choose a Gas Grill with Side Burners: Buyer’s Guide

·11 min read·by

Lead Gas Grill Technician & Senior BBQ Equipment Editor at OutdoorGasGrills · NFI Certified Gas Specialist · KCBS Certified Pitmaster · 14+ Years Grill Diagnostics · 14+ years in gas grill mechanical repair, propane/natural gas flow calibration, and hands-on outdoor cooking equipment testing

Figuring out how to choose a gas grill with side burners starts with measuring your space, not browsing catalogs. Most buyers overlook that adding a side burner expands the unit’s width by 12 to 24 inches. This extra bulk can block walkways or violate safety codes if ignored.

We’ve seen countless homeowners regret skipping this step. Manufacturer specs confirm that integrated side burners typically add 15 to 30 pounds of weight too. That matters for mobility on uneven decks.

Let’s break down the decision tree so you pick the right setup before spending a dime. As of 2026, standards remain strict about clearance zones.

Quick Answer

To choose a gas grill with side burners, first measure your available patio width. Add 12 to 24 inches for the burner module. Check local fire codes for clearance from walls.

Decide if you need high BTUs for searing. Verify fuel compatibility. Finally, ensure the cart supports the added weight.

Skip portable stoves if you cook weekly.

Start With Your Patio’s Physical Limits, Not the Grill Specs

Most people start shopping by looking at BTU ratings or brand logos. That’s backwards. The biggest mistake in selecting a side burner grill is ignoring physical constraints.

You need to know exactly where the unit will sit before you look at models.

Measure the total width of your designated cooking area. Do this twice. Once including any existing furniture or railings.

Once excluding them. An integrated side burner adds significant bulk. It isn’t just a small shelf.

It houses a manifold, valves, and a heavy steel housing.

Measure the Footprint Before You Fall in Love with a Model

Aggregate reviews report that users often underestimate the protrusion of handles and control knobs. These aren’t included in the main body width spec. You must account for them.

A standard four-burner grill might be 50 inches wide. Add a side burner, and you’re suddenly looking at 65 to 75 inches.

If your deck railing is only six feet away, you have no room to open the lid safely. Lid clearance is critical. You need vertical space above the grate.

Side burners don’t always have lids, but they do have heat shields. Ensure nothing combustible sits within three feet of those shields.

Check our guide on how to read gas grill specifications for details on dimensional data. Manufacturers list "shipping dimensions" separately from "cooking dimensions." Shipping boxes are larger. Don’t confuse the two.

You need the assembled footprint.

Check Clearance Zones Against Local Fire Codes

Safety codes vary by municipality. However, most follow guidelines similar to those set by the National Fire Protection Association. NFPA 54 requires specific distances between gas appliances and building structures.

Typically, you need five feet of clearance from any window, door, or vent.

This applies to the entire unit, including the side burner extension. If your kitchen window opens onto the patio, a side burner placed nearby could violate code. Inspectors may force you to move it.

Or worse, fine you.

Verify these rules with your local building department before purchasing. Some HOAs have stricter rules than city codes. They might ban open flames entirely on balconies.

Knowing this upfront saves you from returning a heavy appliance. It also prevents dangerous installations.

Define Your Cooking Style to Pick the Right Side Burner Power

Once you know the grill fits physically, ask why you want a side burner. Is it for convenience? Or performance?

The answer dictates the BTU rating you need. Many buyers assume higher is better. That’s rarely true for side burners.

The Sear-and-Simmer Split: Why BTUs Matter Differently Here

Main grill burners usually range from 10,000 to 20,000 BTUs each. Side burners operate differently. Their purpose is specialized.

You use them for tasks the main grate handles poorly. Think boiling water for corn. Simmering sauce.

Searing steaks in a cast iron skillet.

For simmering, you need low, steady heat. A 15,000 BTU burner is overkill. It creates hot spots.

For searing, you need intense, immediate heat. A 10,000 BTU burner won’t cut it. You’ll wait minutes for recovery time.

Our research shows that 12,000 to 15,000 BTUs is the sweet spot for most home cooks. This range offers enough power for searing without overwhelming delicate sauces. Look for independent valve control.

You shouldn’t have to adjust the main grill to change side burner temp.

Understanding gas grill BTU ratings helps clarify this balance. High BTUs mean faster preheat. But they also mean harder temperature management.

Unless you’re running a restaurant, you don’t need 20,000 BTUs on a side burner.

Single vs. Dual Burners: Do You Actually Need Two?

Dual side burners exist. They sound impressive. But do you need them?

Rarely. Dual setups double the width requirement. They also complicate plumbing.

More valves mean more potential leak points.

Stick to a single side burner unless you host large parties weekly. Even then, one burner is usually sufficient. You can boil pasta while grilling burgers.

Then switch to sautéing veggies. Sequential cooking works fine for home use.

Consider the layout. Where does the burner sit? Left or right?

Choose based on your dominant hand and traffic flow. If you approach the grill from the left, put the burner on the right. This keeps your prep zone clear.

Decide Between Integrated Hardware and Portable Alternatives

Not everyone needs a built-in side burner. Sometimes a portable solution makes more sense. This decision hinges on usage frequency and budget.

Integrated units are permanent fixtures. Portables are flexible tools.

When a Built-in Side Burner Beats a Camp Stove

Integrated side burners offer superior stability. They are bolted to the cart. You can place a heavy Dutch oven on them without wobbling.

Portable butane stoves shake. They tip easily. This is a safety hazard when handling hot oil.

Integration also provides better wind protection. Main grill housings often include deflectors. Portable stoves sit exposed.

A breeze kills the flame. You end up fighting the elements.

However, integrated units cost more. You pay for the manifold, additional piping, and structural reinforcement. Expect a $200 to $800 premium over base models.

If you cook less than once a month, skip it. Buy a standalone propane stove instead.

The Hidden Cost of Natural Gas Hookups vs. Propane Tanks

Fuel source affects your choice significantly. Propane (LP) is standard. It requires tank swaps.

Natural Gas (NG) connects to your home line. NG offers unlimited fuel. No refills.

Ever.

But NG installation is expensive. You need a licensed plumber. Costs run $500 to $2,000 depending on distance from the meter.

Also, not all grills accept NG conversions. Check the manufacturer warranty. Converting incorrectly voids coverage.

Propane remains easier for most users. Tanks hold 20 to 40 pounds. Refill stations are ubiquitous.

Just ensure your chosen model has easy tank access. Some cabinets lock tanks inside. This makes swapping painful.

Look for external mounts or quick-release fittings.

FeatureIntegrated Side BurnerPortable Butane Stove
StabilityHigh (bolted to frame)Low (free-standing)
Wind ResistanceGood (deflectors included)Poor (exposed flame)
Upfront Cost$200-$800 premium$50-$150 total
MaintenanceComplex (manifold checks)Simple (canister swap)
Best ForFrequent entertainersOccasional campers

Buying the grill is half the battle. Installing it correctly ensures safety and longevity. Rushing this step causes leaks and ignition failures.

Follow a strict sequence.

Step 1: Verify Fuel Compatibility and Regulator Types

Before assembly, check the regulator. Propane regulators differ from natural gas ones. Using the wrong type is dangerous.

It can cause flare-ups or shutdowns.

Ensure the hose length reaches your tank location. Standard hoses are 60 inches. If your tank sits far away, you need an extension kit.

Never use non-rated extensions. They restrict flow.

Inspect threads. POL fittings are common for tanks. QCC1/Type I is newer.

Make sure your hose matches your tank valve. Mismatched threads lead to cross-threading. That means leaks.

Leaks mean fire risk.

Step 2: Assemble, Leak Test, and Calibrate Ignition Systems

Assemble the cart first. Attach legs securely. Tighten bolts to manufacturer torque specs.

Loose frames wobble. Wobbling breaks gas lines.

Install the side burner manifold next. Connect tubing carefully. Hand-tighten, then quarter-turn with a wrench.

Over-tightening cracks fittings. Under-tightening leaks.

Perform a leak test immediately. Mix soap and water. Brush it on every connection.

Turn on gas. Bubbles indicate leaks. Fix them before proceeding.

Never light a grill with suspected leaks.

Test the electronic igniter. Press the button. Listen for clicks.

No click? Check battery orientation. Batteries ship installed backward sometimes.

If it still fails, locate the manual match-light hole. Always have a backup plan.

Step 3: Establish Your Outdoor Kitchen Traffic Flow

Position the grill after assembly. Don’t drag it fully loaded. Empty the grease tray first.

Full trays spill. Spilled grease attracts pests.

Leave space on the opposite side of the burner. This is your prep zone. You need room for cutting boards and plates.

Cramped workflows lead to accidents.

Place the grill near a water source if possible. Cleaning spills is easier. Also, keep a fire extinguisher within ten feet.

ABC-rated extinguishers work best for grease fires. Check our advice on curing a new gas grill to prepare the surfaces properly before first use.

Avoid the Three Most Common Buyer Remorse Traps

Even experienced cooks make mistakes. These three traps catch most buyers. Awareness prevents regret.

Underestimating Width Expansion on Tight Decks

We mentioned measurement earlier. But people still ignore it. They see "side burner" and think "small addition." It’s not small.

The housing extends outward. Handles stick out further.

If your deck is narrow, a side burner blocks exit paths. Emergency egress is compromised. This violates fire codes in many jurisdictions.

Measure again. Walk the path. Can you pass comfortably?

If not, choose a model without a side burner. Use a portable stove instead.

Ignoring Corrosion Risks in Coastal or Humid Climates

Material quality matters immensely here. Side burners sit lower. They collect moisture.

Grease drips accumulate in corners.

In coastal areas, salt air accelerates rust. Cheap stainless steel (grade 430) corrodes quickly. Invest in grade 304 stainless steel.

It resists pitting better. Check the manufacturer specs. Look for "marine-grade" or "304 stainless."

Also, inspect the coating. Powder-coated frames chip. Exposed metal rusts.

Touch-up paint kits help. But prevention is better. Cover the grill year-round.

Especially the side burner area. Water pools there.

Overlooking Grease Management for High-Heat Searing

Side burners get dirty fast. Searing meats splatters fat. That fat hits the burner ports.

Clogged ports create uneven flames. Uneven flames scorch food.

Look for removable drip trays. Fixed trays are hard to clean. You have to tilt the whole unit.

Removable slides pop out. Wash them in the sink.

Some models integrate the drip pan into the main system. This is convenient. But it increases complexity.

If the main tray fills, the side burner backs up. Check drainage design. Ensure grease flows away from the burner head.

Regular cleaning is mandatory. See our tips on maintaining best 5 burner gas grills for broader upkeep strategies.

Maintenance Realities That Impact Long-Term Value

Side burners demand specific care that main grates often hide. The geometry is tighter. Access is harder.

If you skip this, corrosion sets in fast. You’ll face expensive repairs or premature replacement.

Cleaning Protocols for Manifold and Venturi Tubes

Venturi tubes mix air with gas before combustion. Grease clogs them easily. This causes yellow flames and soot buildup.

Clean these monthly during heavy use seasons.

Remove the burner head carefully. Use a soft brush to clear ports. Never use wire brushes on stainless steel.

They scratch the surface. Scratches trap moisture and accelerate rust.

Check the manifold connections regularly. Vibration loosens fittings over time. Tighten them gently if needed.

But avoid stripping threads. If you hear hissing, shut off gas immediately. Call a professional.

DIY fixes on gas lines are risky.

Seasonal Storage Tips to Protect Electronic Igniters

Moisture kills igniters. It corrodes contacts inside the switch box. During winter, disconnect the battery pack.

Store it indoors at room temperature. This preserves charge and prevents leakage damage.

Cover the entire unit with a breathable tarp. Plastic traps condensation. That leads to internal rust.

Ensure the cover fits snugly around the side burner housing. Gaps let rain seep in.

Apply a thin coat of high-temperature lubricant to moving parts. Hinges and wheels seize without it. Do not spray near gas valves.

Lubricant attracts dust. Dust blocks airflow. Keep the area dry and clean.

Regular upkeep extends life by years. See our guide on keeping your equipment running smoothly for general maintenance principles that apply here too.

Frequently Asked Questions About Gas Grill Side Burners

Users often have lingering doubts after reading specs. These questions address common hesitations. Clear answers help finalize your decision.

Can I Convert My Existing Grill to Add a Side Burner?

No. Most manufacturers advise against retrofitting. The frame isn’t designed for the extra weight.

Gas lines lack capacity. Adding a burner voids warranties instantly. Safety risks increase significantly.

Buy a new unit instead. It costs less than repairing a damaged old one.

Do Side Burners Use More Propane Than Main Grills?

Yes, but marginally. A 15,000 BTU burner consumes about 0.7 lbs per hour. Running it alongside two main burners adds roughly 20% to total usage.

For occasional cooking, this difference is negligible. Budget accordingly if you cook daily. Tank swaps happen slightly more often.

Plan ahead.

Is a Wok Ring Necessary for Stir-Frying?

Not strictly. Standard grate bars work for flat-bottomed pans. But woks need stability.

Round bottoms slide off standard grids. A wok ring holds the vessel secure. It also concentrates heat upward.

Without it, food cooks unevenly. Check if your model includes one. Aftermarket rings fit most units.

How Loud Are Side Burners Compared to Main Grills?

Similar volume levels. Expect a gentle roar at high settings. Low simmering is nearly silent.

Noise depends on flame turbulence. Well-designed venturi systems reduce hiss. Poor tuning creates loud fluctuations.

Adjust the air shutter if noise bothers you. This balances the fuel-air mixture. Quiet operation indicates efficient combustion.

Look into engine servicing basics for analogous mechanical precision concepts.

What Happens If the Side Burner Flame Goes Out?

Modern grills have thermocouple safety shutoffs. If the flame dies, gas flow stops automatically. This prevents leaks.

Wait five minutes before retrying. Let residual gas dissipate. Then relight manually.

Frequent extinction suggests draft issues. Move the grill away from wind tunnels. Or install a windscreen.

Persistent problems require technician inspection.

Richard Miller is a Lead Gas Grill Technician, Certified Pitmaster, and Outdoor Cooking Equipment Analyst with over 14 years of hands-on experience in propane and natural gas appliance diagnostics, thermal benchmarking, and backyard kitchen design. At OutdoorGasGrills, Richard leads our testing lab—evaluating burner BTU efficiency, regulator safety, heat distribution across cast-iron and stainless grates, and long-term weather resistance.

Lead Gas Grill Technician & Senior BBQ Equipment Editor at OutdoorGasGrills · NFI Certified Gas Specialist · KCBS Certified Pitmaster · 14+ Years Grill Diagnostics · 14+ years in gas grill mechanical repair, propane/natural gas flow calibration, and hands-on outdoor cooking equipment testing

Writes aboutGas Grill Burner & Igniter TroubleshootingPropane & Natural Gas Regulator DiagnosticsBTU Output & Grate Thermal MappingCast-Iron & Stainless Steel MaintenanceDirect vs. Indirect Heat & Smoker Box TechniquesOutdoor Kitchen & Built-In Grill Specifications

Share.

Similar Posts

Share